Self-journey through the Baltic States in the summer. Tour Traveling on the Baltic States Three countries

Soon, very soon new year holidays. Where to go for the holidays? A-Renta is ready not only to provide you with truly inexpensive rental prices from Moscow, but also to submit ideas for holidays. For example, why don't you arrange a romantic trip by car on the Baltic States?

Many are negligible to the Baltic States: they say, the countries of the former USSR, which Ryano rushed to Europe, although European there does not smell there. There is nothing to look there, the service zero, and the attitude of the Balts to us, the Russian ... to put it mildly, leaves. However, those who think so are the root of the wrong. Let's try to destroy the established stereotypes, leaning on the Baltic States on the car.

Trip to Baltika by car

To take care of the documents - this is necessary:

1. For those who go on a journey by car, it is necessary to arrange the so-called Green Card, which will need to be present when passing the border.
2. And do not forget that Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia are part of the European Union, so in passports must be worthwhile visas.

How to get there?

In the Baltic States, you can get in two ways: through Belarus and through the Leningrad region. Residents of central Russia, as a rule, are trained just through Belorussia. Therefore, if you are required by car in the Baltic States from Moscow, you can at the same time on one of our former edges of the eye, which is called to look.

Tests at customs

The first and perhaps the only thing that overshadows the journey on the car is the incredible queues on the border with Lithuania. You can stand 6, 8, 12 hours. This is how lucky. You need to be prepared for the fact that arrogant drivers on steep cars with thorough numbers pass without a queue. And for some reason they pass them.

Before the trip, it is better to "stagnate" the forums of cars travelers, where people share observations and considerations about what time it is better to pass the border.

The procedure for inspection of the car and passports takes a little time.

Traveling on the Baltic ...

Lithuania

And here is the cherished stamps about the passage of the border stand in passports: you are in Lithuania.

The most famous Lithuanian city Vilnius for visiting is required. Let you do not embarrass the old five-story buildings of the Khrushchev era. Yes, yes, they will meet you at the entrance to the city. But the so-called old town in Vilnius is incredible:

• cozy atmosphere,
• little streets,
• beautiful architecture of old buildings,
• motor tracks,
• hospitable cafes - this is what is worth visiting Vilnius!

In addition to visiting attractions in Lithuania, you must ride along the coast. To rest on the sea, Klaipeda and a little-known sailor are remarkably suitable. Palanga, by the way, the largest city resort of the Lithuanian coast. And housing prices as, however, and on food, there are very biting there.

Latvia

To get to neighboring Latvia, no borders should be passed. Ride from Lithuania to Latvia for about four hours.

Naturally, the first city to see is a stunning Riga. Old town in Riga is one of the most beautiful throughout Europe. At every step, incredible vintage buildings, cathedrals, squares. An ideal place for romantic walks together and for visiting the whole family.

On small streets here and there are cozy cafes. Prices are truly European. A sufficiently modest dinner on three will cost no less than 50-60 euros.

The most important thing is that you need to know about Riga traveling on your own car - these are paid parking lots in the oldest city. You can only leave the car in specially designated places and just a few hours. Usually, at night.

When booking a hotel, it is important to clarify whether there are free parking spaces, which, most likely, will not be included in the price of living. In addition to Riga, cars travelers advise to look in Jurmala, Cesis and Liepaja.

Estonia

Last on line, but not the last beauty, Estonia.

By tradition, begin to get acquainted with the country from the Old Town in Tallinn. There are a lot of incredible in the beauty of towers, town hall, fortresses and cathedrals. The center of the Old Town is the famous Town Hall Square. The place is truly awesome: to find out there, as if they are transferred to the Middle Ages. It seems to be a little bit and from the next street on the area riding the knight ride on horse.
By the way, many cafes that are located in the old town at every step are decorated in the medieval style. Prices are high enough. The closer to the Town Hall Square, the more expensive.

Another mandatory place to visit the place in Estonia is Tartu. Very beautiful city in which one of the oldest universities of Northern Europe is located. Do not be lazy to Haapsalu - North Venice Estonia. Haapsalu will strike you with small streets and cute wooden houses.

Share impressions

So, the overall impression of the Baltic States:

1. Incredibly, beautiful, atmospheric.
2. The tracks and roads are ideal, everywhere very clean and cozy.
3. Vintage buildings and churches are amazed.
4. Our compatriots are perfectly ready to help suggest a route or any other question.
5. In the cafe and restaurants there are menus in Russian. The waiters are very friendly and friendly. Constantly interested in whether all the ordered dishes liked everything.
6. Almost everyone is perfectly spoken in Russian. The exception is only young people. She almost does not own Russian speech.
7. Hotels for every taste and wallet, and there are almost always free spaces. (It is better to book the room you like for the night, if you wish it can always be extended).
8. Be sure to take with you warm things. Even in the summer in the Baltic States can be very cold. Especially the caprication nature in Estonia: there are often rain, the temperature in July-August can reach only to + 16-17 degrees.
9. Of the minuses: Long passage of the border from Russia and back. And prices in the cafe: they are quite high, designed for secured Germans and the French, who, by the way, there are a lot.

Finally, I got hands before writing the text about our route of the autocouplement on the Baltic States.

The total length of the path is 2975 kilometers, but taking into account the trips within the cities and to the surrounding attractions we drove significantly more than 3,672 kilometers. Immediately I will say that it is possible to go to the path only in the presence of love for traveling by car, and if you are traveling with a child - it is desirable that he shared this passion.

Our daughter, fortunately, grows a tireless traveler, and perceives long-term trips more than favorably - in the end, during this time you can listen to a whole bunch of fairy tales!

So, the route broken down by day:

In the morning we leave Moscow along the M-1 and we go toward Smolensk (380 km). To save time and nerves, I highly recommend using the paid drill of Odintsovo.
In Smolensk, I also dine (I highly recommend the cafe "Peter Push" @restoran_peterpush on Lenin Street, 14) and moving on to the side of Belarus. No border between countries, even the formal itself, no.
Not a single hotel Minsk did not like, so we spent the night in the agricultural courtyard in Lagoysk (from Smolensk to it 306 km)

Breakfast and we are going to Minsk (the distance from Lagoisk is 40 km).
There we went to the @minsk_zoo_official zoo (Tashkentskaya Street, 40), donate and moved towards the border with Lithuania (to the Point of Transition Benyasethi - 191 km)
Go through the border and go to Vilnius (the distance from the border is 53 km), where they arrange for the night

The third day passes in Vilnius - we were already here, so inspection of the historic center did not repeat. Instead, we visited:
Open-air Museum "Park of Europe" (der. Yonaikishku, LT-15148)
Cafe with a huge game "World of Dwarves" (Laisvės Pr. 88)
Interactive "Museum of Toys" (st. Shiltadaraj, d. 2)

We start moving to the sea. Let's leave Vilnius to the side of the tracker, but on the way we visit the wonderful corn labyrinth (Vilnius-Trakai 16 km)
Selling from the labyrinth, we go Trakai and walk there on the castle (go only 11 km)
From there we leave in Kaunas for a walk and lunch (on the way - 87 km)
After Kaunas, we continue to go to the sea. Our corrodder on the coast was the town of Sveventoya (from Kaunas - 250 km)

We come to myself after a busy day and inspect the surroundings. In the morning we went to the beach, and then drove into the entertainment complex HBH Palanga (Zhibininkai, Lepa G. 23). There you can easily hang for the whole day.

In the morning - the sea, and then we go to Dino.lt dinosaur park (Radailey, Klaipeda region). After the lizards, you can dine and walk in Klaipeda or Palanga, they are very close.

Breakfast and go to the old port of Klaipeda, where you sit on the ferry to the Curonian Spit. In this part of the Spit, it is necessary to visit the Lithuanian maritime museum, it is beautiful.
We return to the ferry back, sit down in the car and go towards the border with Latvia. The boundaries between the countries are again not.
Nightly in a small but wonderful town of Liepaja (from Schwenthi to Liepaja - 61 km)

Walking along Liepaj, swim, if the weather allows, and go to Riga (go to the capital of 216 km)
There we went to the Latvian Museum of Nature (st. K. Barona 4), have dinner and went to bed

This day passes in Riga - we were dedicated to His walk on the huge ethnographic Museum of Latvia in the open sky (Bonavevurauras St.).
Then I recommend to call for lunch or dinner in one of the restaurants of the LIDO network - there is tasty, cheap and very colorful

Breakfast and go to wander through the historical center of Riga. To evaluate all the beauty of the city, we climb into the tower of St. Peter's Church (Starna Str., 19).
Then leave the capital and go to Cesis to look at the local castle (88 km)
After saying goodbye with Latvia and leave for Tallinn (on the way - 300 km)

We walk on Tallinn, although one day here, of course, is criminally little.
We went to the Tallinn zoo @tallinnzoo (Ehitajate Tee 150 / Paldiski MNT 145), a medieval restaurant Olde Hansa @olde_hansa (Vene 1) and went to the beach of Pirite 15 minutes from the city center.

In the morning we walk in Tallinn, and then we put forward in the direction of the border with Russia - we were more convenient to travel through Narva (211 km). Do not forget to sign up in the electronic queue!
Once at home, we are going to rest and sleep in Veliky Novgorod (distance - 272 km)

Breakfast, walk in the Novgorod Kremlin and go towards Moscow. I would most use a paid Leningradka, because it is very significantly saved by time.
We dine and knead the legs in Tver (from Novgorod - 387 km)
Last jerk to Moscow (176 km)

I think that 3 years of regular trips give me the right to summarize "secret knowledge" and write notes in the FAQ style for those interested in this direction. All information provided here is based on personal experience and communication with like-minded people. Our 3-week trip to Latvia and Lithuania (12/19/2012 - 01/19/2013) is taken as a basis.

Visa. We became the happy owners of the 2-year-old Latvian Schengen! The Consulate of Latvia willingly gives multiple visas to those who have already traveled to them, and the "novice" puts one-handles. Last year introduced an electronic form, which can be filled in Russian, but Latin letters. The list of documents is on the official website.
The closer to the holidays, the more wishing to receive a visa, so it is better to give documents in advance (maximum 90 days before the trip). All useful information in my article How to get a Schengen visa yourself

From positive moments: payment of accommodation is not required, take any armor, including with airbnb, the main thing that the dates and names of all tourists are correctly indicated in them, preferably on the branded letterhead with signature and printing (usually seen by fax or e-mail scanned form). We brought 5 bookings this time, and to be clearer to the visa officer, it was all step by step in document "Route", mandatory for traveling by car.

At the moment, the Latvian visa is the most successful option. For comparison: in the consulate of Estonia, you can sign up by phone (in high season it is very in advance), multiple visas are issued "by mood"; Consulate of Lithuania requires confirmation 100% of the payment of accommodation and gives one-time visas.

P.S. In 2015, we again filed a Schengen visa through Latvia and received multivibuses for 2 years to the term of passports.

Accommodation. I plan this part immediately as soon as the dates are defined. In principle, if there is an open visa and a trip to the non-season or not on holidays, it is not necessary to hurry. Recent years, more and more wishing to spend the New Year in the Baltic States and here the earlier booked, the better. Hotels in Latvia are the cheapest in the European Union (meaning the price per room, not quality). Read my recommendations on the choice of hotel in Riga and Vilnius, and it will be easier for you to decide on the place and prices:
Choosing a hotel in Riga
Review Hotels Vilnius

Usually we go to Riga immediately after the New Year, having met his houses, which and I advise everyone, so you will avoid overpayment for the hotel, air or railway tickets, and if on the car, then there is a queue on the border. This time we found all holidays, including both Christmas and New Year. There are no problems for Catholic Christmas in Riga. There are no English problems, and the Russian tourists who come later are created, but the new year is the problem - there are no places and hotels raise prices, imposing a festive dinner.

Thanks to last year's contacts, this time I booked apartments in Sigulda with a discount, a suite room at the price of the standard in Kedaine, and in Riga managed to quickly solve the problem with changing the hotel.

The goal of our 22-day trip was to change the situation, calmly and unpainted rested. We lived in 4th places, alternating hotel and apartments, the average cost of the night for two turned out € 37 (there were breakfast in hotels).

In the process of finding housing, I learned and used the AirbnB booking system. Unlike others, AirBNB specializes in private accommodation, the reservation process makes it possible to pre-communicate and discuss the conditions with the owner. We really liked the apartment in Vilnius, the initial price was € 45, we were passed for € 35.

Road. We travel by car. In the Baltic States, you can ride in Russian rights and in winter on studded rubber. Currently, the only good road to Latvia and Lithuania on M1 through Belarus. Previously, we stayed halfway over the night, now we get in one day, we rest on the side in Daugavpils. The passage of the border depends on many factors, and never know how much time will take. On December 19, we passed the CPT Grigorovshchina-Patenieki in 15 minutes, January 10 Medininkai-stone log in 20 minutes. Before that, the border, on average, occupied 1-1.5 hours. More cars rides on weekends and in summer, before the holidays, the situation is such that it is better not to drive (December 30 people stand in the queue of 5-11 hours).

The price of a ticket for a train, in my opinion, in this direction is overestimated, besides, they will not buy them for the New Year, the same trains have now become now. For the price of the plane can even be cheaper than trains, if you take in stock or in advance. The bus is inexpensive, but not comfortable.

Roads within the Baltic countries are different, the best and speedy in Lithuania. Focus easily, there are signs, but it is advisable to have a printed map (you can travel) and the navigator. The rules should not be broken, especially exceeding the speed, the chambers warn special signs, but there are also "ambushes", the fines are high. Once in Riga, when departure from Mezaparka, we were stopped and asked for the use of alcohol. Immediately fined for parking in a wrong place or non-payment. Booking accommodation, specify about parking, in the old town of Riga. Parking price per day is very high. If you drive somewhere for a few hours, it does not make sense to seek free parking and then go from it long. In Kaunas on the Town Hall Square, hourly pay was only 20 rubles. Useful to have parking hours.

Even if you are on the car, I want to ride somewhere every day. Public transport walks often and good. Buy an e-ticket is better in the kiosk (the driver is 2 times more expensive), while it is important to know that one ticket with two trips for two will not suit, you need to have 2 separate. Card with unused trips do not throw out - the period of action (reason to return). The stops are displayed by the running string, if you can not always ask for passengers, help. And be careful: buses and trolleybuses in Riga are very similar.

Weather and clothes. Baltic does not give a warranty 100% sun in July or snow in December. According to my impressions there are a lot of "variable clouds", wind and rain.

For the three December-January weeks in Latvia Lithuania, we caught frosts, snow, rain, dry asphalt and several sunny days, the temperature scatter was from -20 ° C to + 3 ° C.

Before the trip, I always watch the forecast for local sites, and he, in principle, comes true. In winter, you need to have several options for clothing on very coldly haul with the possibility of combining. On this new year we went under the rain on the ice, the shoes were protected by impregnation from moisture, and we ourselves - a large umbrella (the latter is required at any time of the year). On the coast, penetrating winds are often blowing (hood to help).

Money and shopping. I am surprised by the fact that Russian tourists still use currency exchanges. Everywhere accept credit cards, from an ATM can be removed cash in local currency to pay for the rest (parking, entrance tickets, tip). The most advanced country is Estonia, they can buy a bus on the bus in the kiosk and almost everywhere to pay for the entrance to the museum.

We do not go specially for purchases, but go to the shops, if there is time and desire. As else everywhere, the most favorable time is the sales, in our case January. Shoes in Vilnius, compared with Moscow, 2 times cheaper and choosing another, besides, you can arrange Tax Free and get back the tax amount. In hotels and info centers there are always map of the city with addresses of stores and shopping center. I wrote about shopping in Vilnius.

Excursions. For the New Year holidays, good guides are highly in demand, therefore it is necessary to negotiate the excursion in advance. Proposals Set: hiking and on cars, combined, individual, for group. Choose your taste:

Food. Hungry will not stay and do not go on food. In major cities, especially in the capitals, many establishments for every taste, prices below Moscow, but again, if you and have breakfast, and dinner, and dinner in the restaurant on the house area, it will not be cheap.

The most popular option is Lido National Kitchen Enterprises, in Riga there are several of them, including a large entertainment complex on the street. Krast. You walk with a tray, choose what you like, all fresh, is not fired, the prices are very democratic. In Tallinn Lido is in the shopping center "Solaris".

It is necessary to try the national cuisine, but all the time there is only it quickly bored, especially since it is not Italy or France. For example, a traditional gray pea with a spicent - the satiety of Latvian peasants, which I would not take in the restaurant, once ordered boiled pork ears once - did not appreciate. Lithuanians love potatoes very much, it is served even to the soup, the challenins lay down "heavy cargo" on my stomach, it was necessary to take one portion for two. Belgian beer is well represented in Lithuania, in Latvia, mostly local (large selection), in Estonia, two main stamps.

Drinking coffee with a bun is most advantageous for everything we did in Kaunas, there on Laisves Aleja there is a pastry café with a huge selection of baking and coffee. In winter, when I just want to get to warm up, use the Internet toilet, it is worth paying attention to the special offers of the coffee type + croissant or the morning menu. Cafe in a good location with service is not cheap anywhere. Traveling around the cities and villages, at the same time feeding "at the exit" it is necessary to keep in mind that in many places after 16: 00-18: 00 everything closes and people are sitting at home, especially in no season.

In the apartment we ourselves are preparing breakfast and dinner. It is very interesting to walk on different supermarkets, enjoying the range of products and their quality. I always take local dairy products - yogurts, curd cheese, cheeses, milk. From meat is mainly represented by pork and a bird that workshops are separated. Fresh vegetables, fruit. Many wines, including Georgian.

In Latvia produce delicious black-cormoranodine SIDO juice, which is perfectly combined with the Riga Balsam; Under this brand, non-alcoholic mulled wine is produced, which drink hot. Latvian chocolate and candy factories "Laima" are very popular, good-bitter chocolate, candy with balm, there are beautiful boxes with views of Riga as a gift. In Latvia, there are a lot of natural marmalade of different varieties, I buy the sea buckthorn and cranberry. Estonian "Kalev" makes my favorite candies with liqueur and marmalade fillings, marzipan bars.
Even in large supermarkets, it is advantageous to buy souvenirs and trivia for the house.

- Two countries and five cities.

Day 1. Moscow - Riga - Jurmala

I decided to start your trip with, in which I came by train (5 thousand re.). I love to travel by this kind of transport, I like to look out the window and watch, flashing one by one, city, forests and fields. I sat in a coupe late in the evening, and already next morning I was in one of the most beautiful cities of the Baltic.

Two nights in Riga I lived in a hostel Seaqulls Garret Hostel. (60 EUR for two in two nights). I will say about the hostel that it was not the most successful choice - the beds creaked, shouted behind the door, and at night there was a terrible snoring. Then I still had little experience + greed my second nature. Now I'm trying to fight this quality in favor of comfort.

In general, relaxing in the hostel will not work, well, if, of course, do not take care of earnest. But the main thing is cheap and pure bed.

Leaving things, I decided to inspect the city to move for tomorrow, and on the first day of my journey to go to the famous resort city, which hosts a "new wave", "Jurmalin" and other festivals. It's terribly interesting! We all think that Jurmala is a whole city, but no. This is one collective name of the whole coast, where there are such settlements as Dubulta, Bulduri, Lieleja and forgive Lord, Starnurags. But I went out in Mayori.

How did I get to Jurmala? Jurmala is located just 20 kilometers from Riga. The easiest way is the train, which departs every 15-20 minutes from the central station toward the coolant or Tukums.

I spent the rest of the evening in Riga, in the restaurant with cows "1221", which is located on the "Blumenestrasse" - a flower street.

Day 2. Riga

Riga is the most real medieval Europe, this is an old city on the cold Baltic shore. She is like a rich landing, which will keep his treasures. The city seems to measure and does not want to change anything. This trip for me has become like a time trip.

All day I walked around the narrow streets of the city, ate in the best restaurants, I went through sightseeing excursions and performed the plan "Must Visit", about which I wrote.

Day 3. Trakai - Kaunas - Vilnius

Early in the morning from Riga, I left for me a new country - Lithuania. I got there on a gorgeous bus, you can say a five-star bus with all the amenities. I had one had a whole chair on which Lunch lay. Before his eyes hung TV, films and music on any color and taste. And for all this I had to give all of some 1200 rubles.

To Lithuania, go only three hours, and this move was for me as a whole journey. Ha Window flashed green fields, grazing cows and Lithuanian-Latvian villages. And it was so good! Tickets for buses from Riga to Vilnius We are looking for.

Upon arrival in I immediately settled in the hostel Jimmy Jumps House. (30 EUR). Cozy, not expensive, youth hostel, where in the morning you can make a delicious breakfast with waffles.

Trakai is another reason to come to Lithuania on the weekend. This is a great idea of \u200b\u200ba trip, let's say, on the May holidays. When they talk about the Baltic country, first remember Trakai, the place that must be included in the MUST SEE list.

Trakai harmoniously combines the castle of the orange color; Mirror smooth water; painted in the Lithuanian boat flag, with fishermen sitting in them; Fancy courtyards with ladybugs, glass bottles, manually decorated. It is all complemented by sunny weather, spring mood and red tulips that grow here everywhere.

This is a wonderful place, harmoniously combining the castle, a mirror smooth of water, boats painted in the Lithuanian flag and bizarre courses with ladybugs, glass bottles painted by hand acrylic. It is all complemented by sunny weather, spring mood and red tulips that grow here everywhere.

Not far from Vilnus there is a wonderful town of Kaunas, not yet bad and not touched by crowds of tourists, which should certainly look if you are in Lithuania.

Returning to Vilnius satisfied, like an elephant, I quickly fell asleep. The next day promised to be a robbery and rich in pleasant impressions of Wilnius walks.

Day 4. Vilnius

After examining the city, it turned out that it was an amazing place for relaxing on the May holidays. Even wonder how so much interesting was placed in such a small town.

We went to the PRIE KATEDROS brewery, where local beer tried, climbed on the castle mountain, walked around the old town, considered all the painted houses in the Uzhupis.

Back on the train Vilnius-Moscow we arrived home (they paid 7 thousand per coupe).

This route on the Baltic States turned out to be complete and saturated, we tasted with a lot, and saw even more. For four days, 38 thousand were spent on the road for two, including travel, accommodation, food and a couple of souvenirs.

- This time the girl shares a ready-made trip to Latvia. Walking along Riga and lie on the beach in Jurmala - an excellent program, but are you sure that you know a lot about the country from such a journey? Castles, waterfalls, lighthouses, gingerbread cities - where else to go and what to look in Latvia - the word Masha.

Why Latvia?

Latvia became the first European country, a trip to which I completely planned myself. We wanted to Europe, but were limited in money and time - only ten days, so the choice fell on the Baltic countries. Initially, we were going to go around Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia, moving between them by the hitchhiker, but buy bus tickets to one of the countries - to easier to get a visa. Cheapest flights were to Latvia - the fate of the trip was solved.

Now I can say that Latvia is an ideal country for those who want to go to Europe for the first time, but the linguistic barrier is afraid and does not want to spend much. But experienced travelers here will be interesting. Alas, Latvia is often underestimated. Our compatriots and neighbors often perceive it as an intermediate point on the way to the "true Europe". Europeans, on the contrary, go there to look at the post-communist country. But do not think that I am waging along the streets of Riga before the flight of the Loadoster or having hung on Jurmala Beach, you really saw Latvia.

I got the impression that in this country it is seriously invested in the development of tourism. I would describe this by the English proverb: "if you can" t have the best make the best of what you have "(" If you can't get better, make the best that you have "). Here is not so much The world-famous architectural monuments, impressive natural attractions or places with a very ancient history - so, the UNESCO list includes only two points from Latvia. But in every little little attractive city, an informational center is equipped, and twenty Latvian beaches are awarded the blue flag (quality mark and Fitness for safe bathing). All at least a little interesting thing is turned into a landmark: from the destroyed forts to the telescope of the radio astronomy center. Looking at such a careful attitude towards your story, I want to express my respect to the Latvians and even slightly envy them.

"All at least a little interesting here turn into a landmark: from destroyed forts to the telescope of the radio astronomy center"

How to get?

We drove to Riga from Moscow by bus LuxExpress. For € 35 per person. The return ticket was taken to St. Petersburg, for € 17.5. Also from both cities in Latvia are taken by Ecolines. If you plan a trip in advance, you can save. Thus, the minimum price of the LuxExpress ticket from St. Petersburg to Riga - about € 13. Also from Russia to Latvia train: Latvia-Express company train from Moscow to Riga costs from € 40.5, the usual from St. Petersburg - from € 37.5 . Time in the way in both cases - a little more than 16 hours.

From Minsk in Riga can also be reached by bus. The state carrier "Minsktrans" will take to Latvia for € 14.5. There are offers from private companies: LuxExpress runs every day, ticket price - from € 10, Ecolines has several flights, the price is € 23.8. Do not forget about discounts for youth and students!

From Kiev, Ecolies go to Riga, but the path will not be close - as many as 30 hours on the way. One side ticket will cost € 50. Much faster and easier will fly to AirBaltic - about 2 hours on the road and about € 100 per ticket.

Accommodation

During ten days in Latvia, we did not spend a cue on housing thanks to Kauratsurfing. Find a host in Riga is an easy: the site has more than 700 users from this city, ready to receive guests. In other settlements, the situation is different: in the second largest Daugavpils, the population is seven times less than in Riga, in the third largest Liepaja - nine times. In the cities where we were, usually lived no more than ten active hosts - so I advise you to contact them in advance. We managed to find "tracks" in Riga, Liepaja and Kuldiga, and a couple of times we joined the tent.

Housing prices in the Latvian capital are pleased: Night in the hostel - from € 5. In other cities, everything is not so nice: the cheapest version from Buking in Ventspils - from € 10, in Liepaja - from € 12, in Kuldiga - from € 19, And in Cēsis - from € 25. If you prefer to inspect the country in a dynamic pace and want to save, you can, like us, make Riga with a transit point. The distance in the country is very small: if you wish, you can put forward from the capital with early in the morning, inspect some city and return to the night.

Transport

We moved along Latvia on the travelers. According to our host from Liepaja, who comes from about sixty countries in this way, the hitchhiking in his homeland is one of the best in the world. I would not give such a high marks, but I confirm that it is convenient and fast to move around the country. The average waiting time for our pair was about 10 minutes, the maximum hour. A pleasant surprise has become that many drivers are ready to spend some time and gasoline to deliver you straight to the place. Once the driver not only had any extra kilometers to fifteen to the point where it was not too popular road, but left for a farewell phone number so that we contacted him, if you can't catch anyone back.

In addition to the highway, we tried the long-distance trains - they reached Riga to Sigulda (about 50 kilometers). The ticket costs € 1.9. We were quite comfortable, albeit slightly handicraft. Check the schedule and routes on the company's website Pasažieru Vilciens (PV).

There, where you can not drive by train, long-distance buses go. A ticket from Riga to Sigulda costs € 2.75, to Ventspils - € 7.55, from Liepaja to Kuldigu - € 3.85. Check the schedule and prices, and on a separate portal you can buy tickets online, but with extra charge.

National cuisine

Latvia love rye bread. So much that it is not just eating it, but also add to different dishes. For example, here you can try bread ice cream or bread yogurt with prunes. And also bread soup, which, oddly enough, eat not on the first, but as dessert. Prepare it from dried fruits and actually bread and season cream. From rye flour, another local dish is made - Slandrausis - an outdoor pie with vegetable filling (as a rule, from boiled potatoes and carrots mixed with egg and polished sour cream).

As a main dish, I advise gray peas, which is prepared with onions and smoked squalls. And for the dessert, we smooth the cake "Old Riga" (Vezriga) with cottage cheese cream.

Most of Latvian dishes can be tried in a restaurant Lido, and the cakes "Old Riga" and bread yogurts we bought in supermarkets.

Language

There is practically no language barrier in Latvia: as a rule, the young generation speaks English, the older - in Russian. Of all the drivers who brought us, we had to communicate only with one - Dutch.

Only once we had difficulty with communication. In Kuldig, we wandered into a working table, some miracle that fell into the guide. Only local, the menu was dinner, the menu hung on the wall and was only in Latvian, and the food was superimposed from huge pots and pelvis, so there was even a chance to understand what. I turned to a woman on a distribution in Russian, and she answered Latvian. I repeated my question in English - and then she moved into Russian.

The situation with the language in the country is closely related to the historical context. After the collapse of the USSR, Latvian citizenship received only 2/3 of the country's population - citizens of the pre-war Latvian Republic and their descendants. The rest are predominantly Russians, as well as Belarusians, Ukrainians, Lithuanians, Poles and a number of other peoples living in Latvia - received the status of "non-citizens". For 2013, there were about 80 differences between citizens and non-citizens: so, the latter cannot take part in the elections, hold a number of posts, there are economic and other restrictions for them. To obtain a citizen's status, it is necessary to go through the procedure of "naturalization": to give an oath of loyalty to the country, pay the duty, pass the exam on the knowledge of Latvian language, constitution, anthem and history. At the same time, in the 90s, the Russian language ceased to be state.

At the moment, there is still a little more than 10% of people in the country, and have not received citizenship: someone considers the unfair procedure itself, someone is not ready to pay a duty, someone does not know the language sufficiently to pass the exam . However, not all Latvians like that people live in their country who do not want to master the state language and speak it. According to the 2005 study data, 47% of Latvians believed that the interests of Russian-speaking in the country are even more accounted for than. 68% of Russian-speaking, on the contrary, believed that their rights were infringed. To this day, the relationship between two nations inside the country is slightly electrified.

Route

In the Visa Center of Latvia, we were provided with a couple of guidebooks, I found a couple of information on the official tourist portal of Latvia. Initially, I wanted to fit all the countries of the Baltic in a ten-day trip, but, having studied a dozen booklets and sites, I realized that it was not enough for Lithuania and Estonia.

I marked interesting points on the map, and the route was signed: the arrival in Riga, the country's examination to the east of it, then - to the West, and finally the return to the Latvian capital, where the bus was going home.

Riga and Jurmala

Riga became the first European capital, where I visited. I am delighted with everything: organ music from chostels, blocks and tiled roofs, prices in euro ... although there is no, these, rather, were upset. I passed a bunch of guidebooks, and I did not want to miss a single point recommended there. I tremblely wandered around the town hall, tried to fit into the frames pressed close to each other at home, called the name of the three brothers, and visited the black cats on the roof of the house, whose owner did not adopt it in the merchant guild, the elder unfolded the sculpture of the fifth point to his window. However, the Riga is already written in detail.

From unbearable places there I would recommend Latvian Ethnographic Open Sky Museum (Brīvdabas iela 21) where more than one hundred vintage wooden buildings from all over the country. In the warm season (from May to September) the entrance for adults costs € 4, for full-time students - € 2; In the cold (from November to April) - € 2 and € 1.4, respectively. In the summer, artisans demonstrate their skills on the territory of the museum. We spent almost half a day for a walk and cheaply lunch in Kharchevna in the park.

"I am delighted with everything: organic music from chostels, blocks and tiled roofs, prices in euro ... although there are no, these, rather, grieved"

Also advise you to go inside Latvian National Library (Mūkusalas iela 3) . Although many locals consider her ugly, inside it looks very pretty. You can see the building along with an excursion in Russian, which is suitable on the phone on business days and costs € 2. I walked around the library for free along with our host, seeing from 1 to 8 floors. The library site says that on Sunday, 11 and 12 floors are also available for visitors.

Jurmala we visited the on the eve of the departure, and it seemed to us rather boring from a sightseeing point of view, although there is more than a hundred monuments of wooden architecture of state importance. But it is well suited for resort holidays: a third of the Blue flag of Latvian beaches is concentrated here, and the total length of the comfortable coastline - 26 kilometers.

Sigulda

In Sigulda, we went for the sake of locks, which here are three: medieval Turaidsky, destroyed Krimuldskyand more modern Siguld Palace. For a leisurely walk between them, half of the day will be enough, while you will admire the types of the valley of the Gauja River and you will be able to evaluate several unique objects for Latvia.

First, it is cave Gutmana (57.176235, 24.842062) 18.8 meters deep, 12 meters width and 10 meters high. Those who are fond of speleology or simply visited the caves, such dimensions are hardly impressed, but this is the largest cave in the Baltic countries. Secondly, to the Krimuld castle on the opposite side of the river can be reached on the only cable car. Types open luxury, but the price for 7 minutes the path is unreasonably high - € 8 to one side. Right from the cabin of the tram can jump with a tarzanka, but pleasure is even more expensive - € 60.

For fans of extreme sports in Sigulda, there are other entertainment: for example, a Sannova-bobslee track a length of 1200 meters and a band of obstacles at an altitude of 20 meters in the largest in the Baltics Park Adventure Tarzāns.

Cesis

Cesis is one of the oldest cities in Latvia, he has more than 800 years old. His main attraction is the largest in the country livonian Order Castlewhich is also called Vezen, by the name of living in these places of the nationality.

For the entrance to the Cēsis Castle, the summer season (from May to September) you need to give € 4 (for schoolchildren and students - € 2.5), in the winter (from October to April) - € 3 (€ 1.5). For visiting the museum in a new castle will have to pay € 2 (Schoolchildren and Students - € 1). We bought a complete ticket, but came to the conclusion that it was possible to limit the castle.

I not only called the whole building, descending into the dungeon for prisoners, but also observed for the work of the Kuznetsov, I learned about the medieval kitchen from the gardener and took part in the entertainment of that time - it was practicing a fencing with a wooden sword and made a dozen steps on stilts. When walking along the castle park I advise you to find a wooden "box," where Lenin is a dismantled monument, which was previously stood on the main square of the city.

Liepaja

This seaside city in the west of Latvia boasts the largest mechanical body in the world and the third largest port in the country. Today the harbor is used only for trade, but earlier a third of the city held a military port - Latvian "Kosta".

The construction of the largest maritime military base in the Russian Empire began here at the end of the XIX century. It is from here in 1905 the Russian fleet went to the Pacific Ocean to participate in the Russian-Japanese war. But the place for the base was originally chosen unsuccessfully - only 40 kilometers from the border with a potential opponent, Germany. Soon the First World War began, and all defensive structures were destroyed by order of the commander of the Baltic Fleet - fearing that they would get to the enemy, they never used them. The blown forts have survived to the present day and are popular with tourists.

In the Soviet years, submariners were based here, and the "Kosta" became a closed military town. Now, this area can visit anyone and admire the architectural contrasts - imperial buildings and typical Soviet houses, abandoned, unfinished or populated. We wandered here to visit museum-Prison "Kosta" (Invalīdu iela 4) . On the official website, this place is positioned as "the only prison in Europe, open for tourists," from which no one runs away. " But this does not testify to the guardability or scale of construction: in fact, it is a tricky advertising move. From the royal times until the end of the last century there was not a prison here, and Gauptvakta, where the disciplinary punishments were serving. The maximum term of conclusion did not exceed the month, so there was no sense to run away.

Gauptvakta managed to serve the Russian Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union, and after it was abandoned, local enthusiasts decided to turn the building into the museum. Admiration with how pretty and creatively in Latvia use those opportunities to attract tourists who have for the first time to come to me here. For € 5, you can visit a regular excursion where they will spend on the cameras and tell about the history of the place, and for € 15 - to even spend the night. Large pre-recording groups can feel all the delights of the prison life, having participating in the lattice show. Although children are allowed on the excursion, and the guide is constantly released by jokes, Gauptwahta retained its gloomy atmosphere.

Today Liepaja is the musical capital of Latvia, where every summer the festival passes Summer Sound.. Thanks to this, the city has new attractions - the Glass Concert Hall "Big Amber" and the Alley of the Glory of Latvian Musicians. We left for an inspection of all these places in less than a day, despite the fact that we also managed to swim in the Baltic Sea on the marked blue flag of the city beach.

Kuldiga

Culdiga, perhaps, the most cozy city in Latvia from those in which I was. Only 13 thousand people live here, it is possible to walk from the edge to the edge in an hour, and the historic center of the city is entered into the National List of UNESCO. But we arrived here first of all for the sake of two waterfalls.

First - Aleccupic waterfall (56.969851, 21.975383) On the Aleccupit River - it looks very pretty, but impressive weakly, although with a 4.5 meter high and became the highest in Latvia. Second - Vents-Rumba (56.967965, 21.978900) on the Venta River - a higher title was honored: its width of 100-110 meters to almost 280 in the afternoon made it widest in Europe. But do not imagine the Latvian Niagaru: its maximum height is a little more than two meters, so it resembles a roller threshold rather than a waterfall. It is best to come here in spring or autumn to watch how migrant salmon "in flight" overcome Ventas Rumba.

Ventspils.

I got the first impression on Ventspils on the way to Him. The woman brought us told us about the local park of entertainment and his key object - Ski Mountain "Hat Lembergs". The mountain is notable for the fact that the landfill was created on the site: the waste polygon was installed, processed, covered with the construction garbage, covered with turden, planted herbs and equipped with tramplines and lifts. The garbage bunch, which turned into a popular holiday destination, was called in honor of Lembergs's many years of the mayor.

One of Ventspils's motto is "City with Future." True, it is not felt familiar to the province of depressiveness and destroy. Progressive trends here illustrate not only a story with a landfill. So, in 2002, the city took part in the parade of the cows - the international artistic action, in which artists create creative sculptures of the burenok and exhibit them in different places of the city. After that, monuments are sold at auctions, and money goes to charitable goals. Ventspils became the first city in Eastern Europe who participated in the parade. Of the 26 cows, decorated the city at the time of the action, not sold out only six. But the parade inspired the inhabitants and the authorities of the city, and soon new cows began to appear on the streets, and in 2012, the Cows parade repeated again. Walking along Ventspils, constantly meet the sculptures of the mannistant: from the cow-fashionista, which admires himself in the mirror, to a police cow or a cow-fools, looking at a TV along with the owner. These works of art not only raise the mood to local residents, but also attract tourists.