Open the left menu aix-en-provence. Aix-en-Provence - the cultural capital of Provence Aix-en-Provence Saint Jean
When my boyfriend and I were discussing the next summer vacation, we did not even think to be in Aix. We dreamed of the south of France, but we also wanted to get into: walk along the Old, taste the well-known bouillabaisse (bouillabaisse - Marseille fish soup), understand why everyone is crazy about Provencal rose wine. The town of Aix-en-Provence was out of the question. Moreover, we did not know about the existence of this city at all.
After spending a few days in Marseille, we made a lot of acquaintances with the locals. Each of them advised to visit the magical Aix, promising that this town will undoubtedly leave a mark in our hearts.
What is the first thing that comes to mind when you mention the historic area in the southeast of France? I personally represent lavender fields, aromatic herbs and spices, majestic mountains, impressionism, and, undoubtedly, magnificent rosé.
People from all over the world have always wanted to visit: artists and poets were looking for inspiration and new impressions, gourmets wanted to taste Provencal cuisine, tourists and ardent travelers wanted to take some unforgettable shots in lavender fields and put a "tick" in the list of countries they visited ...
The first time we went to rest in August, so it was already possible not to dream of lavender fields. In fact, lavender blooms from mid-June to early August, but in fact, there is little chance of seeing lavender in the most popular spots in late July or early August. The climate is getting hotter every year and the lavender season is getting smaller.
So, one morning, when there was no more sense (and time) to delay, we packed up and went to the central station of Marseille Saint-Charles, to take a bus from there and go to Aix-en-Provence. By that time, we already had some idea of the city and dreamed of being on the old stone-paved streets, seeing the baroque palaces of the Provencal nobility of the 17th-18th centuries, taking a walk near the town hall with a Gothic clock tower and, of course, plunging our hands into one of the many fountains that were once able to save the city from the plague! 
How to get there?
Aix-en-Provence can be reached by plane, train, bus and car. You won't be able to get there by water, because the nearest sea is in Marseille (27 km from Aix).
By plane
The nearest international airport is located exactly in Marseille. From there, the bus station (Aix Bus Station), which is just a 5-minute walk from the city center, can be reached by so-called auto-express trains. Such a trip will take about 30 minutes and will cost 7-9 EUR per person, depending on the age of the passenger (discounts are provided for students and young people under the age of 26). Buses run every 15-30 minutes: if you missed one, don't worry - the next one will arrive soon! You can buy a ticket at the ticket office, which is a couple of steps from the bus stop, or from the bus driver.
The city can also be reached from the airports of Nimes, Toulon, Nice.
If I'm not mistaken, there are no regular flights Moscow-Marseille, but in the summer there are definitely charters from Russian cities. You can also find many connecting flights via, or, well, or give preference railway transport.
About buying tickets
As a veteran traveler, we take ticket reservations seriously. We never procrastinate and prefer early booking. However, many travelers who like to fly with low-cost airlines (Ryanair, Wizzair) advise buying tickets 2-3 months before the trip. In addition to low-cost airlines, you can look for good options on popular sites, for example,. The main thing is to decide exactly on the dates, not to delay the purchase, and then you can save a lot.
Marseille Provence airport
international Airport Marseille-Provence is 27 km from Marseille and 29 km from Aix-en-Provence. On the this moment there are two terminals at the airport. As we understood, one serves large airlines, the second is more specialized in low-cost airlines.
Vitrolles Marseille train station is nearby, but we were not lucky enough to use it. As our French friend, a resident of the town of Merey (located near Aix-en-Provence), said, the townspeople prefer to travel by bus to neighboring cities (and cheaper, and, oddly enough, faster, because trains and electric trains make a lot of stops on their way ).
Thus, the journey from Marseille to Aix-en-Provence by train will take about 45 minutes, and by bus - only 28 minutes. Both the bus and the train arrive in the city center, both stations are located next to each other. 
A bus trip will cost only 6 EUR, and by train 8 EUR for passengers over 26 years old, 6 EUR for students and young people up to 26 years old. Tickets can also be purchased at the station ticket offices or in special terminals that accept cards and cash.
There are enough shops at the airport, there is a duty-free zone, several cafes, restaurants and bars. There is a tourist office, a bank, a wireless Internet zone, a first-aid post ... However, I strongly advise against staying at the airport overnight - there will be nothing to do there, everything closes until 12 at night. Once, alas, we had to spend such a night, and it was an extremely negative experience.
By train
If you are not intimidated by the long distances, Aix can also be reached from Paris by train. With the high-speed TGV trains, everything has become much easier - the trip will not take more than 3 hours, but it is easier to get to Marseille, and from there it is already to the central station of Aix-en-Provence.
Paris-Marseille trains run frequently, about 5 times a day. Depart from Paris Gare Lyon train station. Websites write that you can find tickets costing from 25 EUR, but you should be absolutely lucky. It is more realistic to find a ticket for about 40 EUR one way.
Be careful: regional trains arrive in the center of Aix-en-Provence, but the train station with international routes is just 15 km from the city center! From there, the city center can be reached in 15-20 minutes by shuttle buses, which also run frequently - every 20-30 minutes - and arrive at the Aix Bus Station (5 minutes walk from the city center).
Clue:
Aix-en-Provence - time is now
Difference in hours:
Moscow 2
Kazan 2
Samara 3
Yekaterinburg 4
Novosibirsk 6
Vladivostok 9
When is the season. When is the best time to go
The beauty of Provence is that you can go whenever you want: each season is attractive in its own way. However, most tourists go to Provence solely to see the lavender fields with their own eyes. What is there to hide, the spectacle is actually indescribable! At the tourist office you can ask for a special map of Lavender Roads and choose the route you like. However, it should be noted that the undisputed leader in the number of lavender plantations is the Valensole Valley, which, in fact, itself consists of one huge lavender field. But, as for evil, it is here that lavender can be seen from mid-June and only until mid-July (roughly it blooms until July 15, but it can be harvested even earlier).
Yes, lavender is undoubtedly worth it, but this particular season is "hot" and, accordingly, the most expensive and crowded. Both tickets and housing prices are increasing significantly. In addition, this period is the hottest, the air temperature during the day can reach +37 degrees Celsius.
Personally, I prefer to travel in August and September. Yes, you won't see any lavender, but you will be able to enjoy a milder climate and relatively less crowds. Besides, in September comes the fig season, what is not a reason to travel? In any case, before the trip, it is definitely worth familiarizing yourself with the weather forecast so as not to grab extra warm clothes.
Aix-en-Provence in summer
It is hot in Aix-en-Provence in summer and gets hotter every year. The average temperature in the daytime is +34 degrees Celsius, in the evening +18.
Aix-en-Provence in autumn
In autumn, a real Indian summer reigns, which can last right up to mid-November (during the day the temperature will vary from +15 to +17 degrees Celsius). Many people prefer to come here at this time of the year, when there are no tourists and you can enjoy the privacy, feeling like a local.
However, there is a fly in the ointment in every barrel of honey. It is in autumn that the mistral period begins - a strong and very cold wind. It can last right up to spring. On such days, you don't want to leave the house - it's scary. Mistral can be strong enough to uproot trees.
Aix-en-Provence in spring
Many also prefer late spring for their travels in Provence. There are not so many tourists yet, but the sun is warming with might and main! So if the vacation falls in the spring, you can safely go. The average temperature in March is +15 degrees, and in April and May +20.
Aix-en-Provence in winter
January is the coldest month to visit Aix-en-Provence. However, subzero temperatures will not overtake you, which cannot be said about rains. In winter, Provence has the highest rainfall.
Clue:
Aix-en-Provence - monthly weather
Districts. Where is the best place to live
Aix-en-Provence is a commune city. When choosing accommodation, it is better to stay in the city center in the so-called Center Ville and its surroundings. If you look at the city on the map, it may not seem so small, but this is only an appearance.
There are several districts around the center, which are, in fact, "satellite villages" - some of them are actually independent villages. Banon, Maruege, Les Milles can be noted. However, renting an apartment there is unlikely to work - they simply are not there. If you are traveling by car in a large company, you can find many villas or cottages that are not located in the center of Aix, but on the outskirts or even in neighboring villages. But to tell the truth, it will be extremely difficult to get to a supermarket or cafe without a car. 
It is difficult to make a mistake in the center and rent an apartment in a dysfunctional place. Unlike neighboring Marseille, Aix-en-Provence is a safe city that is not scary to walk in, even at night. We rented apartments both in the very center and far from it.
Since the city houses the philological and humanitarian faculties of the largest university in Provence, Aix-Marseille I, there are plenty of students here. Where do students like to spend their free time from studies? That's right, in bars and clubs, of which there is a real abundance in Aix. Prepare to be quite noisy at night, especially if you decide to rent a hotel or apartment in the Old City. The largest number of bars and restaurants are concentrated in Place Richelme and La place des Cardeurs. But in principle, the whole Old City will not be quiet in the evenings. If you want peace and quiet - choose any other area of the city.
Personally, we liked living on the outskirts of the Old Town better. And the center is just a stone's throw away, and at night the noise and din from the bars will not wake you up. 
The most famous street in Aix-en-Provence - Cours Mirabeau - divides the city into two parts, that is, in fact, all the districts. However, it is worth noting that these parts of the city are completely different from each other. On one side are the streets of the Old Town with a huge number of cafes, restaurants, boutiques, souvenir shops. It is here that farmers' markets open in the mornings, which turn into favorite hangout spots for students in the evenings. On the other side is the pompous Mazarin district. Here the streets are wide, but not crowded. However, if you go a little deeper, you can see several stately mansions of the local nobility hiding behind lush garden vegetation.
You should not get hung up on any particular place - anyway, Boulevard Mirabeau and the best restaurants are just a stone's throw away, a walk in any direction will not take more than 20 minutes. However, when looking for a suitable accommodation, be sure to pay attention to where the windows face and if there is a bustling bar nearby.
Despite the fact that Aix-en-Provence is considered a bourgeois town, life in which order dearer than life in neighboring Marseille, it is easier to rent an apartment or an apartment here. Perhaps the point is that, despite all the charm of Aix, this city is not so popular with tourists.
We always use the services of this, and I can safely say that there you can find many great options for every taste and wallet. As for the hotels, they are expensive here (on average, the night costs 70-100 EUR), most of them are located in the Old Town.
What are the prices for rest
The church is also open from 8 am, and on Sunday you can go to Mass. The morning Mass starts at 10:30 am, and the evening Mass starts at 6:00 pm. Admission is also free.
Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Église de la Madeleine)
The address - Place des Prêcheurs, Aix-en-Provence.
It was in this church in the Italian Baroque style that Paul Cézanne was baptized. But this is not the only reason to look here. All connoisseurs of painting will love the canvases of local artists. Here you can also admire the altar, an ancient organ, and in fact, the entire external facade of the cathedral looks especially solemn.
The church is currently closed for renovation indefinitely.
Museums. Which are worth visiting
Hotel de Caumont - Art Center
The exact address - 3 rue Joseph Cabassol, Aix-en-Provence.
Opening hours in summer time(from May to September): from 10 am to 7 pm, in winter (from October to April) - from 10 am to 6 pm.
The museum website can be accessed by clicking on. 
New arts center and museum in a private 18th century mansion! I definitely recommend visiting, because an unforgettable day awaits you. You can take a walk in the garden, have a coffee and dessert in a cafe, but most importantly, visit a unique exhibition. For example, this summer we were lucky enough to get to the large exhibition of works by William Turner, which was held from May 4, 2016 to September 18, 2016. Ticket prices vary, for example, there is now an exhibition dedicated to Marilyn Monroe. A full ticket will cost 19 EUR, there is a system of discounts for students and pensioners (ticket price - 16 EUR).
Granet Museum
The address - Place Saint Jean de Malte, Aix-en-Provence.
The museum is open every day except Monday. Opening hours - from 12.00 to 17.30.
The museum website can be accessed by following this link. 
The museum is definitely worth a visit for those who are interested in impressionism. In addition to permanent exhibition temporary exhibitions are often held there, and they can be absolutely delightful. A single ticket costs 8 EUR and includes the opportunity to visit the neighboring branch, which is a 5-minute walk away - Chapelle Granet XXeme. And this opportunity cannot be missed! It is there that collected most interesting work such masters as Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Giacometti, Dubuffet and many others.
Musee du Calisson, Confiserie du Roy Rene
The address - 5380 Route d "Avignon Quartier la Calade RD7N, Aix-en-Provence. 
As I mentioned above, calissons are local sweets made from almond flour and dried fruits. It tastes like marzipan. As you might guess, it is in this factory that real calissons are made. Here you can watch the factory work, and, of course, buy sweets in a specialty shop.
What to see in 1 day
Aix-en-Provence is wonderful in that almost all of the above sights can be seen in just 1 day, and at the same time you will not fall off your feet from fatigue. But there is no guarantee that you will not fall in love with this city and will not want to spend as much time there as possible!
Start your acquaintance with the square La rotonde, which is famous for its magnificent fountain in all respects ( Fontaine de la rotonde).
This fountain is the largest in Aix. This area smoothly turns into the previously mentioned Boulevard Mirabeau (Cours Mirabeau), along which you can go deep into the Old Town.
It will be wonderful to arrive in Aix early in the morning to attend the morning farmers market(there are several of them in the city, but, on the advice of local residents, I highly recommend the one located on Place richelme). It is difficult to leave there without shopping: goat cheese (soft Banon cheese and young cheese made from goat or sheep milk Brousse are especially popular), olives pickled in Provencal herbs, the freshest bread, salami, two or three bottles of rose wine. There is often a flower market not far from the grocery market. You yourself can imagine what a scent is there! 
Walk down to City Hall, where the previously mentioned urban town hall with a gothic clock tower. Pay attention to the figures that are under the clock and indicate the seasons, replacing each other depending on the season. The address - Place de l "Hotel de ville, Aix-en-Provence.
Relax on the summer terrace of a café and indulge yourself with a glass of wine or the refreshing Spritz that has become very popular lately. And then, after gaining strength, go to the museum or visit the workshop of Paul Cézanne. You will remember this day for a long time!
What to see in the vicinity
Be sure to visit some wine chateau and take part in the tastings! Especially loved by us:
Food. What to try
Aix-en-Provence is famous for just a huge number of all kinds of bars, cafes and restaurants. Almost every street in the Old Town is literally "crammed" with establishments, which are always full of people. It's amazing how such a small town can accommodate so many different places. 
Here you can find a place for every taste. Locals prefer traditional French cuisine; visiting French people love to visit this region for the sake of Provencal delicacies, which can only be tasted here. There are many cafes in the city with Italian cuisine, and it is her that young people love. If all of the above is boring, you can find establishments with Japanese, Iranian and even Russian cuisines.
The average cost of a dinner in a regular restaurant will cost 25-40 EUR(depending on whether you will take alcohol). In establishments with Italian cuisine, it is a little cheaper: aromatic pasta will cost on average 10-15 EUR.
You can have a profitable lunch, giving preference to a set lunch (analogue of a business lunch), which will cost 15-20 EUR... This lunch consists of a first course, main course and dessert. Certain drinks are often included in the price.
Budget
- Le Bouche a Oreille, 1 rue Aumone Vieille.
- Aux Petits Oignons, 2 rue Peyresc.
- Via Italia, 4 rue d Italie.
- Piacere little italy, 4 rue de la Couronne.
- Crepes cidre et compagnie, 23 Rue de Lacepede.
Middle level
- Le 18, 18 Rue Boulegon.
- La Table des Delices de Sebastien, 57 avenue Maurice Plantier.
- Le Contrepoint, 15 rue Constantin.
- Le Patio, 16 rue victor leydet.
- Hue cocotte, 9 Place Ramus.
- Marasino, 2 B avenue Victor Hugo.
Expensive
- Mitch, 26 rue des Tanneurs.
- La Chimere Cafe, 15 rue Brueys.
- Le millefeuille, 8 rue Rifle Rafle.
- L'Opera, 18 rue Fermee.
- Le Formal - Caves Henri IV, 32 rue Espariat.
- L'epicurien Restaurant, 13 Forum des Cardeurs.
Holidays
You will be very lucky if your trip falls between June 30 and July 20. At this time, the annual Aix-en-Provence opera festival is held, which is one of the most famous in the world. All information about this event can be found.
In general, in Provence, something happens almost every month. In December you can attend the Olive Oil Festival, in January the Saint-Clair Festival, when roasted piglets will be sold in the markets. February is famous for the mimosa festival and the festival of sea urchins and other sea reptiles. In March, you can visit and attend the Babel Med music festival. Holidays of strawberries, cherries, asparagus - what the Provençals have not come up with so as not to get bored! It is impossible to list everything.
If you decide to spend a few days or weeks in Aix or its surroundings, be sure to contact your local tourist office which is located at 300 avenue Giuseppe Verdi, Les allées provençales... There they will definitely tell you about upcoming events. Office site.
Things to do
Shopping and shops
In terms of shopping, this city can be called a real boon for fans of fashion brands and for lovers of vintage and antiques. Here you will find boutiques Louis Vuitton and Moschino, Agnès B and Loft. At L'Atelier, you can try on new items from Chloé, choose something from accessories from Vivienne Westwood. Be sure to check out First for Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Dior.
As for the mass market, in Aix you can also find the well-known and beloved Zara and H&M, however, compared to the large shopping centers in Marseille, the choice is quite limited.
Please note that you will hardly be able to wander around the shops on Sunday - almost all of them will be closed.
In Aix-en-Provence, you can find something interesting at flea markets and antique shops. Lovers of curiosities and rarities come here not only from all over France, but from all over the world.
Don't forget about the previously mentioned farmers' and flower markets, which are unfolding simultaneously in several squares of the city.
Bars. Where to go
Aix has a rich nightlife and many bars. The most popular are wine bars, tapas bars and, oddly enough, Irish pubs, which somehow do not fit with the bohemian bourgeois town. 
It is worth noting following places:
- Happy Days Café, 1 Rue Méjanes.
A very interesting place. Cocktail bar during the day, gay bar at night. Yes, a real gay bar in the center of Aix-en-Provence! The bartender of this establishment told us about this, who clarified that all the most interesting parties take place on Fridays and Saturdays, from 1 am until the very morning! Although according to official version the bar closes at 2 am. Prices are average and below average. During happy hours - from 15.00 to 18.00 - you can take a glass of wine or a Spritz cocktail at attractive prices... A glass of wine will cost 3-4 EUR, a cocktail - 6 EUR. - Le Brigand, 17 place Richelme.
Students say this is the best beer bar in the entire city. The institution is open from 10 am to 2 am. Prices are below average. - Pub O'Sullivan "s, Place des Augustins (Rue Espariat).
Real Irish Pub - Guinness and Kilkenny flow like a river! You can order some of the snacks, but you will not find anything significant here.
Opening hours - from 11 am to 2 am, Sunday until 12 am. Prices are average and below average. - Le Cintra, 14 Place Jeanne D Arc.
Oysters, mussels and cool wine are what awaits you in this truly French place. Open 24 hours a day! Prices are above average. - L'Amoroso, 8 rue Aimeric David.
Works like a regular Italian restaurant, but with a top-notch wine and cocktail list. This is the place where you can start your evening. Prices are above average.
How to get around the city
Getting around the city is very easy, we almost never used public transport (although everything is fine here). Aix is such a city in which you want to endlessly walk, wander, turn into previously unexplored cobbled streets. However, if you decide to rent a villa that is far enough from the city center (about 5 km), it will be difficult without a car. We rented a car several times for a couple of days to go to some chateau for a bottle of wine and go on a picnic to Mount Sainte-Victoire. But in fact, you don't need a car to move around the city - you don't have to waste time looking for parking spaces and save on it. As a rule, parking in France is paid. You can navigate the prices for car rental.
Renting a bike is a great idea! And the distance to the chateau is realistic, and the physical activity will not be superfluous. You have to put the gained kilograms somewhere.
I advise here the company. You can also contact.
Buses
There is no metro or tram in Aix. Everyone travels either on foot, by car, or by bus.
A ticket for one trip can be bought from the driver, or you can take care of it in advance and purchase a “pre-paid pass” - this is cheaper. You can buy such a pass at the ticket office of the bus station. Since we have never used buses, and the cost of the ticket varies depending on where you are going, I will not give you exact information on this matter. But all the details can be found on the booking sites! Don't overpay. This !
Rent a Car- also aggregation of prices from all distributors, all in one place, let's go!
Anything to add?
Aix-en-Provence, often referred to simply as Aix by locals, is one of the most attractive destinations in the south of France.
Richer than Marseille, cheaper than Paris and with 300 days of sunshine a year, this is perfect place for romantic vacations and summer vacations. The city is just a short drive from the beaches of the Côte d'Azur and ski slopes, in the heart of Provence, where travelers are surrounded by aromatic lavender and sunflower fields and ancient olive groves. It is also the birthplace of the painter Cézanne; Aix-en-Provence has enough cultural and historical attractions to satisfy the most irrepressible enthusiasts.
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Discover the winding medieval streets of the historic center, explore the Roman ruins in nearby Arles, or simply watch life as you sip your coffee in cozy cafe... Aix-en-Provence is good for any time of the year, although most people prefer to visit the city during the summer peak season from May to September, when the famous lavender fields are in bloom and the sun gives the pale stone buildings a soft golden glow.
However, it is worth considering spring break in Aix, when the city is blooming with hundreds of colors, or an autumn journey when the weather is not so hot. Aix is also a popular winter vacation destination due to its proximity to local ski resorts and seasonal events such as the Christmas market.
How to get there
The nearest airport is in Marseille, 20 km from Aix-en-Provence. There is a bus from the airport to the city every half an hour, the journey takes about 30 minutes and costs 7 euros. Taxis can be found outside the terminal building and will cost around 70 euros. The fast TGV trains are ideal for those who prefer scenic views.
A one-way trip from Paris takes less than three hours and a ticket costs 25 euros. Trains stop at Aix-en-Provence station, which is located near the city. WITH railway station buses run regularly. Buses leave from most major French cities to Marseille. A bus runs to Aix-en-Provence from Marseille Saint-Charles station, the journey takes 30 minutes and costs 8 euros.
sights
Experience the laid-back tranquility of Southern France by visiting the Mazarin Quarter. South of populous Mirabeau is a grid of streets lined with old "hôtels particuliers" that were originally built to house the wealthy merchants and nobles of Provence. The Old Town is home to boutique hotels and shops selling local handicrafts, as well as several charming cafes. It is a dynamic area of the city with beautiful architecture and aesthetic appeal.
The long, tree-lined avenue Mirabeau marks the focal point of shopping and entertainment in Aix-en-Provence, with many restaurants, bars and tourist shops catering to the enthusiastic consumer. Various markets and events take place here on different days, as locals love to meet old friends and shop here. In the middle of Cours Mirabeau is the ancient Fontaine du Roy Rene in memory of Rene of Anjou, who died in the 15th century - a man holding a scepter in one hand and a bushel of local grapes in the other. While in Paris, be sure to visit Notre Dame Cathedral. But while in Aix-en-Provence, don't miss the Cathedral of Saint Savior. This Roman Catholic cathedral is a popular tourist attraction and national monument France. The building includes Romanesque, Gothic and Neo-Gothic elements as it underwent repeated reconstruction attempts from the 12th to the 19th century. On these days, visitors can enjoy precious works of religious art about the life of Christ from Nicholas Froman, Louis Finson and Jean Daré. Be sure to check the cathedral's program before visiting, as you may be lucky enough to enjoy an evening organ concert or a Christmas rehearsal for the choir. 
The Granet Museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence has many exhibits of painting, sculpture and archeology. When the museum was built, it belonged to the nearby Church of Saint-Jean-de-Malta. Only in the last few decades has the building been renovated and opened to the public as an art gallery. Today you can see the works of such famous artists as Renoir, Ingres, Cezanne and even Van Gogh.
Indulge in the provincial cuisine and countryside of Aix-en-Provence, then enjoy the great cultural offerings on the outskirts of the city. The Vasarely Foundation realizes the artistic concepts of Victor Vasarely, whose colossal paintings - modern masterpieces use abstract forms and bold colors, and thus attract the attention of the whole world. Vasarely hoped to ease the world's problems with squares and triangles, and indeed many of his paintings of optical illusion leave the viewer enchanted for a long time.
Currency
Euro The winding streets of the Old Town are filled with boutiques of clothing, books, arts and crafts and jewelry. If you are looking for global brands, visit Les Allées Provençales or the large Carrefour mall, which sells everything from fashion accessories to electronics.
Food
Aix-en-Provence has an incredible number of restaurants compared to its small size. Most of the establishments are located in a small area in the Old Town, between Carder Square and the Rotunda (Cours Mirabeau). The restaurants and bars on Cours Mirabeau tend to be more expensive, although while some may be considered tourist traps, others are some of the best places to eat in the city. L "Authentique - perfect place for burgers in the area. You can buy the most delicious and high quality French bread at Le farinomanFou or Emile Bec.
You can also try calissones, the region's signature dish consisting of a smooth, pale yellow, smooth paste made from candied fruits, most commonly melon and oranges, and ground almonds with a thin layer of royal icing. "Chez Charlotte" - very good restaurant popular with locals. It offers simple and inexpensive French cuisine in a friendly atmosphere. If you really want to eat like a local and save a few euros, small restaurants that have doner kebabs on the menu are best. For a few euros you get a “sandwich” wrapped in a gallet or round bread that includes lettuce, tomatoes, onions, meat, fries and be sure to ask for the Blanche sauce. It is very tasty and cheap.
Many restaurants make this dish differently. La Maison des Fondues offers a wide variety of delicious fondues. Le Clos de la Violette is located in the northern part of the city, close to the excellent Hotel Villa Gallici. This restaurant is awarded with a Michelin star. The menu changes seasonally.
Where to stay
Popular neighborhoods in Aix-en-Provence Old city- the center of Aix-en-Provence with some of the most impressive buildings in the city. The most popular local attractions are the 17th century town hall and the Cathedral of the Holy Savior, where you can see the Triptych of the Burning Bush by Nicolas Froman.
The Villeneuve neighborhood is a new area of the city to the east of the Palace of Justice, an upscale residential area of stylish townhouses. Cours Mirabeau (Cours Mirabeau) - one of the busiest and most popular areas of the city. Its centerpiece is an 18th century tree-lined alley where you can see many of the city's famous fountains and stately mansions.
Aix-en-Provence is a university city, so you will find many budget hotels as well as luxury and upscale hotels. Good mid-range hotels are Hotel ibis Aix-en-Provence, Hôtel Aquabella and Hôtel Best Western Le Galice. Luxury hotels such as La Villa Gallici or Hôtel Aix-en-Provence - Hôtel de Gantès are ideal for visiting the city on special occasions.
Precautionary measures
Aix is a safe city to visit, but as in all French cities, tourists in Aix must be aware of the risk of being the victim of pickpockets and thieves. Do not leave valuables in sight in parked vehicles. Use extra caution at night and use taxis if traveling to remote areas late at night. Avoid visiting public parks after dark.
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Markets of Provence.
City of many and often the best markets in Provence.
The most famous and most important, of course, on the square Place richelme ... It is located among old houses in the shade of plane trees, and is easily recognizable from photographs on the Internet. Although, still out of sight, it will attract you with smells: ... To list what is sold here, you need a complete encyclopedia of Provencal cuisine. And to list what you can cook - a book. Despite its popularity, it has all the trappings and spirit of the regular market in Provence - in a good way. An interesting detail: prices are written here with chalk on tablets, and not with a marker on paper. And so they look better. Almost the only one in Provence, it is open daily from 8-00 to 13-00.
Aix is a very bookish city (and with this he finally fascinated me). In the well-known the center of Сitedulivre meetings, presentations and literary festivals are constantly held. And the book market is located on Place de l'Hotel de Ville .
Bonus: do not pass by in any markets, shops and cafes callison ... These are Eksovskie's branded little rhombus-shaped delicacies made from almond crumbs and dried fruits. On top they are covered with chocolate (white or black) glaze. By the way, every first Sunday in September is a day of distribution of calissons - free throughout Aix.
Aix-en-Provence and Paul Cezanne.
I miss Ax. When I'm not there, everything is in vain ... - Cezanne lived in Provence and lived in Provence. Walking route in the city " in the footsteps of Cezanne"marked with large nails driven into the asphalt with the letter" C ".
Pablo Picasso at a mature age acquired the 14th century Chateau de Vauvenargues near Aix. " I just bought myself the Cezanne mountains"- said Picasso. It's about grief Saint victoire... She was a real inspiration for Paul Cézanne and is depicted in many of his paintings. One of his favorite routes was Bibemu area. Carrières de Bibémus - about 13 km from the city center. A breathtaking view of the mountain opens up from there. And no tourists around!
Aix-en-Provence mercilessly exploits the memory of Cezanne. "Here he was born, here he ate, there he smoked. In this place he passed twice, and over there he lay on the bench" ... With all respect and admiration - do not let yourself completely immerse yourself in the life and past of the great artist.
Sights of Aix. What is this?
We did not post a list of attractions for the hundredth time. Moreover, there is a very good website for the Tourism Office of Aix-en-Provence, and in Russian as well.
The main attraction is its charm. To see Cézanne, you have to look at Sainte-Victoire. To see Aix-en-Provence, look around. Even if you just spend half a day in some cafe, on some small square, "under a plane tree by the fountain" - you will already see the main thing. And, of course, students. In a strange way, this antique city was taken over by youth. Sightseeing - this is each of almost a thousand fountains. This is Cours Mirabeau, "the most beautiful street in France". Squares in front of universities and lyceums.
Just streets.
Just Provence.
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French Riviera
The fourth day of my trip to Provence and the last part of my
Cote d'azur
: Nice, San Rafael, Saint Tropez, Bandol. Aix-en-Provence
I was traveling without a definite residence address. The end point of this day was first assumed Grasse, but it turned out to be some nondescript small town. For me, the previous stop at Castellane was more interesting. So I pressed the gas and after 40 minutes I was driving into Nice.
Rather, I stopped at some parking lot and, using the mobile Internet, booked a hotel for one night in Nice, not far from the old year and the promenade on the Nice embankment: Hotel Victor Hugo Nice
The lower town of Nice is quite simple and divided into squares by one-way streets, so I found the hotel quickly.
What about parking? The owner of the hotel, which is a multi-room apartment on the first floor of an old mansion, suggested that I needed to find something on the street somewhere and pay for parking at the rate of a parking machine. However, when I tried to shove a 2 euro coin into the found one near the place where I threw the car, an elderly woman called me:
-Monsieur, you don't have to pay!
- And why?
- Today is Sunday and street parking is free.
Thanking the woman, I threw my things into the room given to me: everything is fine, there is free internet, the shower and the size of the room is not Parisian: I went outside and went for a walk around the city
The city has already dressed up for Christmas: a skating rink was flooded in the center (this is at plus 20 in the afternoon), a Christmas tree market was opened, and children and non-children were sent to spin on a wheel of obscurity.
Beautiful illumination, beautiful streets, but somehow I didn't like it here, although I had dinner in a good restaurant - I was not comfortable in Nice. There was something in her from the station: a lot of colorful people from different places, a lot of ado about nothing.
Therefore, after taking a walk and taking pictures of something in Vieux-Nice, which seemed interesting to me periodically drinking a glass of wine, I accidentally wandered into the gateway, behind a well-dressed couple walking in front of me and had a wonderful dinner in a restaurant La maison de marie.
And the next morning, having breakfast, I set off to the west, along the highway, along the coast. I didn't go along the roads along the sea on purpose, because I didn't want to waste time on traffic lights and traffic jams, considering that the picture that opens up to me will be the same: fences and gates of villas separating the coast, precious meters and acres of the coast from prying eyes.
San Rafael
The next point of my trip along the Cote d'Azur was Port de frejus and Saint Raphaël... Having quickly reached the toll road to the exit for San Rafael, I drove for some time along the stretch of coast between these towns, looking for something that would make me stop and look around. This something turned out to be an inflatable snowman on the San Rafael waterfront. Leaving the car under a sign that prohibits parking, I walked with the camera in my hands along several streets, but I did not want to remove the lens cap.
- No, this is not my place, Cote d'Azur.
I'm not comfortable here somehow. Therefore, rushing to Saint Tropez with a bottle of rosé wine from the Bandol wineries, I did not find any fish sellers at the fish market, which in Saint Tropez was a room under the arches of an average glass shop somewhere in Biryulyovo.
I was hoping for more, so after breathing tobacco smoke into the compressor supplying air to a diver who was making something at the bottom of the marina, I decided to move to the origins - in Bandol
But there was desolation too, unfortunately. In one of the cafes, they drew me a route to one of the wineries, which is closer to the Verdon Canyon than to Bandol, and they were not sure if it would be open.
Therefore, spitting on the Cote d'Azur with its dense buildings, I moved to Aix en Provence, as it was beginning to get dark and I already booked myself an overnight stay again via the Internet.
Aix-en-Provence
As soon as I, walking down the street and seeing the shells in the boxes, stuck to the seller with questions, and he directed me over the wall to the restaurant, where I sat down and ordered champagne with two servings of oysters ... so immediately I fell in love with Aix-en-Provence.
Oysters
By the way, a good restaurant - I can recommend Les deux garcons but the champagne is there…. I stared at the bill and asked - did you pour me a crystal? What are you, of course not. But in all French restaurants, champagne is expensive. After rattling a little on this topic with a garcon, I came to the conclusion that the difference between Italy and France is that in the first (in Italy) sparkling wine costs a little more than water without gas in France ...
Oysters were served with oranges, and there was bread and butter underneath. I never ate oysters with bread, but here I tried and liked it: gillardo number 3 were very gentle
Strange, but it was Monday. I understand the flower market, but the stalls of cheese and seafood did not fit into the timetable for the markets in Provence, which I studied before the trip.
So that I live like this: fresh, you can bargain, they give you a try and can immediately cook: for example, fry the fish without cutting, and you can take greens from a neighbor ... it's a pity the wine is not poured.
However, the pictures in supermarkets are just as good. I'm sorry, but I erased these photos from my phone, so I'm posting them in full size.
But this has some advantage, as you can immediately see the prices of champagne in the store. Carrefour
Fifth and sixth day of travel.
Arles, park Camargue
As a base, I chose a good motel 12 km from Arles: Hôtel et Résidence de la Transhumance and I can safely recommend this place: quiet, bedroom and large living room made as a studio, fully equipped kitchen, internet, breakfast (not included in the price, but good ), there is a supermarket 100 meters away with some crazy prices for wine: I walked along the aisle several times and looked for wine more expensive than 5 euros per bottle.
Did not have. As a result, I took Montepulciano d'Abruzzo for 1.79 euros a bottle. Fuck, they wrote to me from Italy in the fb that they have more expensive wine on sales
In view of this, I stopped going to restaurants and switched to pasture, that is, I stocked up fresh seafood and wine in the supermarket and clowned about uploading photos to the FB.
As for Arles, it is a small, pretty town with an arena where bullfights are performed in French, that is, bulls are not killed, but only gently stroked on the head.
Probably all about Arles.
Below Arles, there are plains with flooded meadows and marshes. There, white horses graze on free grasses. They say that this is the most ancient breed of horses and their ancestors are unicorns. There is something ancient about them: they are inactive and usually stand staring at one point, as if they had smoked something.
Several resort towns of these places Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer(he gets to enter French names with hyphens in the navigator. Literally Holy-Virgin-Mary-on-the-Sea) and a village with a large marina Le Grau-du-Roi(let's call it “king's degree” or king by degree) were empty at this time. Muddy waves crashed against the brown sandy shores and only a couple of surfers in wetsuits tried to do a stand-up.
The next item on my program in this park was a visit to lakes with a large colony of flamingos. If you go from the Holy Mary to the Sea, then you have to keep to the right and as a result, the narrow asphalt road will go close to the sea, so that even the waves can overwhelm it, but this does not happen - shallow. Met several parked jeeps with boats on trailers. But I don’t understand how you can fish here.
And in these places they mine salt... I went to see this - a simple process, sea water settles in wide and shallow bodies of water, where by evaporation fresh water the salt concentration increases.
Then this concentrate is fed by pumps, which quickly fail due to corrosion to the existing pile of salt on a dry surface through sprinklers. At the same time, some of the water evaporates.
Conclusion
I don’t remember how much this trip cost me. But I don't think it's insanely many. Although I didn’t deny myself anything. In addition, the opening hours of restaurants in Provence partially saved my budget: at lunch I had to buy in Lidl wine and champagne, I ate seafood cooked in the same place and it minus 40-50 euros every day.
France, not so hard on prices. Moscow is more expensive (I went to the Rybny Bazaar restaurant for dinner - I paid 250 euros, taking into account the fact that I have a 10% discount).
Therefore, feel free to go to Provence and enjoy its atmosphere and views. It is not in vain that famous artists of the world spent their creative time here. True, the food there I didn’t really like ... it’s a bit fat for me.
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